My second weekend in Shanghai started off with a bang at the Wushu Museum and the Urban Development Exhibition Hall, but it was far from over yet!
Shanghai, at least by Chinese standards, is a relatively young city. Though people had settled in the area since the 6th century A.D, it was somewhat insignificant up until it became an "official" city in the 20th century. In contrast, cities such as Xi'an and Chengdu were historically significant as early as the 3rd century B.C, often serving as seats of power for various Chinese dynasties.
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| Unlike Shanghai, Xi'an has thousands of years of historical significance |
However, Shanghai's history got a kick-start in the early 20th century, as this sea-side city was hotly contested between a number of foreign powers as well as the two modern domestic powers of the era, the Kuomingtang, which founded the Republic of China in 1911, and the Chinese Communist Party, which of course founded the People's Republic of China in 1949 and is the current governing body in China today.
For the modern tourist, one of Shanghai's draws (aside from world-class shopping) is the unique architecture that blossomed from late 19th and early 20th century Shanghai. The most famous exhibitions of Shanghai's signature architecture from this era are on the Bund, but I'd made several trips to the bund in the past. More inland, and less touristy, than the Bund is the French Concession, a district in Shanghai that was once populated mostly by French expatriates and is today the stomping grounds of many Western expatriates due in part to the trendy bar and dining scene as well as, you guessed it, its unique architecture.
My trip largely followed the walking tour itinerary outlined in Frommer's website
here. In fact, I downloaded this handy map to my iPod Touch to help me from getting lost, though it still happened numerous time.
However, this trip was mostly an architecture photography session for me. I didn't have my
Canon 450D on me (I left it at home so Cherry could take pictures of Fifi), but my
Canon SD1200IS filled in nicely!
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| Walking under an overpass, yet over a street |
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| Many of the early 20th century buildings have this brick motif |
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| A whole set of Mario Karters on the dash of a Lexus! |
My first actual stop was Fuxing Park near Xintiandi. This nice park features a number of interesting statues of famous Communist figures, such as Karl Marx. Not being a Communism historian, I can't tell you that I recognize the statues, but then, in reality I don't know that I can recognize statues of most any historical figures to begin with!
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| According to Frommers, these are Karl Marx and Friedrich Engel |
Fuxing Park isn't really that big, and there were these maps dotted throughout, but it took me a really long time to figure out how to get to the entrance that I wanted to emerge from!
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| I'm told camping isn't very popular in China - however, you do often see people setting up tents in park meadows like this |
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| Girls blowing up balloons |
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| Those rolling tubes that you run around in to no avail |
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| Cool caterpillar suspended in the air |
After circling the park a number of times, I managed to get out of Fuxing Park and move on to the next stop on my walking tour, the St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church. This building featured some pretty stunning architecture amidst a backdrop of the typical dark grey Shanghai
shikumen buildings, but alas, that was all there was to this building, because it is no longer open to the public.
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| It looks nice, but you can't go inside any more |
My next stop was the primary destination of my tour, the former residence of
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen. Dr. Sun Yat Sen is the most prominent figure from early 20th century China. Most interestingly, both the Republican and Communist parties of China consider Dr. Sun to be the founder of modern China, although officially, he was the founder of the Republic of China that overthrew the last emperor of the Qing dynasty. He also owned a relatively modest mansion in the French concession, which his wife, Soong Ching-Ling eventually donated to the state.
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| The neighbor's house has been converted into a museum with exhibits about Dr. Sun and his adventures in early modern China |
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| This one is Dr. Sun's house |
Not too far from Sun Yat-Sen's former residence is yet another former residence - this one of the first Premier of the Communist Party of China, Zhou Enlai. This residence was actually a little more interesting to me because of its role - although it was registered as Premier Zhou's mansion, it was actually used primarily as a local base of sorts for the Communist Party (although Premier Zhou did actually live in a small room in this mansion. It's interesting that prominent figures from rival sides both had residences in Shanghai - at various locations in the houses, the guide placards pointed out various spots along the street where the rival parties often stationed plainsclothes agents to keep an eye on each other!
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| Premier Zhou must have liked vines |
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| The premier's modest bed in this rather large mansion. Many of the other rooms served as dormitories or temporary quarters for visiting Communist party officials and staff. |
This particular segment of the French Concession is still occupied by many mansions, some of which have been converted to high-end hotels, such as the Sinan Mansions:
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| Some of the mansions are storefronts serving one of the largest Expat populations in Shanghai |
The remainder of my walking tour consisted primarily of visiting some historically famous hotels, such as the Ruijin, the Jinjiang, and the Okura Garden hotels that are located along the main roads, which, unfortunately, have been renamed from their very French "La Rue ____" to more standard Chinese names today that really don't have much historical value. Still, the architecture is pretty spectacular:
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| The grounds of the Ruijin are a popular Wedding Photoshoot spot |
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| An old movie theater that still operates today! |
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| Lobby of Okura Garden |
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| This is the old British-run Lyceum Theater, which, sadly, did not seem to be operating... |
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| I snapped this shot because I read about these buses in the paper. They are supposed to be "super green" due to their use of super capacitors for their power plants. |
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| Another Russian Orthodox Church |
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| This former mansion is now a popular restaurant |
And that concluded my walking tour of the French Concession, which has eluded me during all of my previous trips to Shanghai over the last decade!
Stay tuned for the conclusion of my November travels!