After our romp in Shanghai, it was time to move on to less opulent lifestyles once more and head towards what the Chinese refer to as "Heaven on Earth". You see, back in Imperial times, when the Emperors wanted to live the high life, they would leave their capital cities (be it Xi'an, Nanjing, Beijing, etc..., depending on the dynasty) and head towards the cities of Suzhou (苏州) and Hangzhou (杭州). These two cities collectively were known as Su-Hang (苏杭), and it is said that "上有天堂,下有苏杭" (shang4 you3 tian1 tang2, xia4 you3 su1 hang2). This little couplet translates to "Up there there is Heaven, Down here there is Su-Hang", referring to the paradise-like qualities of this region.
We hopped on the train to Hangzhou on the morning of July 8, arriving in the afternoon. We quickly found a hotel courtesy of one of the famous-but-probably-illegal "bread cars" that we had become quite familiar with during our stay in Xi'an. So called Bread Cars are essentially privately run taxi vans that are shaped somewhat like loaves of bread, similar to the Volkswagen vans of the 70s (in fact, I'm not sure that some of them aren't actually Volkswagen vans from the 70s!). These services are typically shunned by the government, which has deemed them to be road hazards, and rightly so, since they don't really follow road rules and stop just about anywhere there is a potential fare!
The first order of business after finding lodging was washing our clothes, since they were pretty soiled from the last few days of mountain-climbing, panda-hugging, and club-hopping. This was China, however, so we washed our clothes by hand and hung them up to dry. This proved to be a bit of a mistake since the climate in Hangzhou is substantially more humid than that of our Xi'an home base... regardless, the next thing on our minds was getting some food, as we had not had any since leaving Shanghai. We were quite excited to find a place claiming to serve our favorite Xinjiang dish, 大盘鸡 (da4 pan2 ji1), or "Big Plate Chicken", a wonderful concoction made with a whole chopped-up chicken, red hot chili peppers, potatoes, and broad rice noodles.

Unfortunately, our hopes and wishes were completely dashed, as Hangzhou's interpretation of 大盘鸡 was a complete failure. To compensate, we went in search of more food, which we found courtesy of a local who showed us a place to have more traditional cuisine of the region (typically sweeter and more vinegary than the bold tastes of Central China). We hit up an internet bar to catch up on our e-mail and then headed in to sleep.
The next day, we headed out to see Hangzhou's most famous landmark, the West Lake, or 西湖 (xi1 hu2). The West Lake is famous for a tower called 雷峰塔 (lei2 feng1 ta3), or Thunder Wind Tower. Unfortunately, the tower was in the middle of a restoration project, so we didn't get to see it. We did, however, get to take a little boat ride on the lake and see the Chinese tourists gawk in awe at my tall, Caucasion companions. One family even asked Eric to pose with their children!
Tune in next time for the conclusion of our trip to China's Heaven on Earth!





















