This post is damn long but it's
really good, so take your time, break it up a bit!
Our classes in China, if you haven't already figured it out yet, are very laid back. Mere days after our field trip/history class skip day to the Terra Cotta Warriors site, Li Fei, our Intensive Reading teacher, decided to let us go early on Friday afternoon. I took this extra time to get my hair colored for the second time (if you recall, the first time was during my Super Saiyan stint on Halloween on the previous year). This time, I died it a sort of plum red. At the hair place, I couldn't really tell that it was any different at first, but once I got out into the sun, it stood out quite a bit - enough to get me mistaken as a Korean tourist more than a few times during our stay in China!

On the weekend, Diana decided to take us on another trip (this time Conrad didn't make it - apparently oversleeping, quite to Diana's disappointment). This time, our destination was the famed Shaolin Temple at Song Mountain, or Song Shan (嵩山). For those of you familiar with Chinese Kung Fu novels and/or TV serials, you might know that Song Shan is the "Center Mountain" of the Five Taoist Mountains, and was once home to a very large Sword School, the Song Shan Pai. Strangely enough, the Shaolin Temple is also located here, despite being a Buddhist temple.
Anyhow, Song Shan is located near Deng Feng county in the Henan province. Xi'an, on the other hand, is the capital of the Shaanxi province, Henan's northwestern neighbor. That meant it would be a bit of a commute to the Shaolin Temple, and called for more drastic transportation than a mere long distance bus like the one we took to the Terra Cotta Army site. Yes, this was to be, for most of us, our first trip on a Chinese Hard Seat Train (硬座). Chinese trains are divided into a number of classes based on the rider accommodation and the speed of the train. The cheapest trains are the Hard Seat, Normal Speed trains that are usually denoted with a P-number (P standing for Pukuai (普快), or normal speed), which are damn slow and have to yield to any train on the same track, be it oncoming or coming from behind. The seat is actually cushioned (though not by much), and about the size of a grade school desk, and are usually grouped in six seats around a table. Next is the Hard Seat, Fast train (designated by K for Kuai (快), or Fast), the most common train in China. These typically travel at around 120 km/h, or roughly 75 mph, and also feature the hard seat format. For really long distances, both the P and K trains have sleeper cars with cots, and are thus called hard sleepers (硬卧). Finally, there are the luxury trains, or the Soft Seat/sleepers. These are also usually the fastest trains, and are designated with T for Tekuai (特快) - especially fast at about 160 km/h, about 100 mph! They also feature full charter bus style cushioned seats or double sleeper cabins with real beds for long distances!

Unfortunately, our commute was only six hours, and did not warrant a soft sleeper. Or even a soft seat. I'm pretty sure we took the typical Fast train. Getting the tickets was pretty easy, as Diana, our seasoned veteran of Chinese travel, took care of that. Getting on the train was trickier. It involved knowing which platform your train would arrive on, and sprinting to your car's gate, then cramming in with all the Chinese passengers. Queues are nonexistent in virtually any type of public transportation in China, so you really had to fight to get on. Of course, they sell more tickets than seats for (although you would usually know if you didn't have a seat, since you paid less, and freeloaders are usually gracious enough to get up if they're in your seat), so there are always quite a few people standing in the aisles. And yes, you would much rather stand than sit in the aisles, as the aisles are used primarily for spitting and disposing of sunflower seed shells (both are rampant in China). Fortunately, we did have seats, so we didn't have to worry
that much about it. One vivid memory I have of this train ride, however, was the peach vendor raid on the train at one of the stations we stopped at on the way to Henan. These guys were
very skilled at what they do. They wait by the track on the station and storm on with the passengers, then try to sell as many peaches as they can before the train stewards bust them, at which point they blaze down the aisles and
jump through the tiny train windows, peach sack and all! Who needs Jackie Chan?

But anyway, you're actually here to read about the trip to the Shaolin Temple. After arriving in Henan, we had to take a tour bus to get to Deng Feng, where we would walk to Shaolin. Tour buses are also quite exciting, especially when the driver leans on the horn whenever another vehicle comes in sight, getting off of it only when the other vehicle disappears from the rearview mirror. Anyhow, we finally arrived, and were quite surprised to see the large number of kung fu schools in the area, but easily more impressed at the sheer number of live-in kung fu students! There were at least 5,000, easy. I think I actually read a figure that said some 6,000 trained in the area at any given time. Diana had actually come to train at Shaolin for some time in the past, and ran into a white guy she knew while we were walking around who was currently living with a farming family in the area and otherwise training full time! Very cool.

Since it was already quite late, we didn't actually go into the Shaolin Temple that afternoon. Instead, we went over to check out Song Shan, and then, when it got dark, headed over to one of the schools, where Diana checked us into one of the dorms for the night. That's right, we got to live in a dorm at the Shaolin Temple! We walked around a bit more after dinner, saw that some of the students also trained in Sanshou, not just forms, which helped assure us that yes, these wiry dudes can fight. When it got too late and dark outside to train, they actually let the students stay up to watch kung fu movies!


The next day, we checked out the actual temple. Not a whole lot of training is actually done there - most of the training is done at some of the sanctioned training facilities outside of the temple, next to all of the vendor booths (the Shaolin Temple is, after all, a tourist attraction of sorts - something's gotta pay the bills!). Diana, with her awesome guan xi, hooked us up with Free tickets to a demo by some junior students! It was an okay demo, but it was free, so who could complain?


After the demo, we toured the temple a bit more. We saw most of the chambers, including the one in the Jet Li movie Shaolin Temple, where the floor has indentations from the hundreds of years of stomping by training monks. We also saw the Forest of Steles that commemorates all of the past monks.


So, at the Shaolin Temple, we saw a beautiful mountain, some amazing stunts, an astounding number of kung fu students, souvenir hawkers, some nice chambers and halls, a large number of memorial steles of great kung fu and Buddhist masters, and some interesting statues of Arhats and deities. But by far, the strangest thing we saw at the Shaolin Temple was the crude zoo they had put together, with a chimpanzee, some weird birds and a camel!
And that concludes the long awaited sixth part of my China 2002 series! Make sure you check out
Tom's Shaolin Temple photo album (where the majority of the photos in this post come from), as well as my
China 2002 albums for a lot more photos from this trip!!